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Parts & Service

We get it – uptime is everything.

That’s why we offer the know-how and resources to help keep your equipment running smoothly all day, every day:

  • 24/7 on-site repair service
  • Quick and accurate repairs
  • Certified technicians
  • 24-hour emergency service ~ Call (630) 739-7770 after hours
  • We communicate with you along the way… you’ll know the status of your repair
  • We work on ALL Makes of equipment
  • Rent-A-Wrench, our Technician works at your site or shop under your direction

 

 

We also understand how important it is to keep your machines in prime operating condition. Here are helpful tips to help you avoid costly downtime and repairs.

 

About Filters
Changing filters regularly is essential for your equipment to perform its best. Recommended intervals for filter changes vary between 250 and 500 hours. It can be tempting to select a bargain filter brand, but an inferior filter can make a big difference in the long term health of your equipment. Saving a few dollars on a filter is just not worth the damage that can be caused to your equipment by an inferior filter.

Here are the basics of filters.

Why are filters used?
Filters are used to keep fuel, oil and hydraulic fluids clean as they circulate throughout your machine’s systems, lubricating the parts and dispersing heat. There are fuel filters, engine oil filters, transmission filters and hydraulic fuel filters.

Why are filters important?
Small particles from component wear and dirt are picked up by oil and hydraulic fluids as they flow through the equipment. If these contaminants are not separated from the fluids, they could cause tremendous damage to a machine. Using the correct filters will actually help maximize machine performance and extend the life of your machine.

A filter should capture contaminants and dirt effectively and perform well during the entire interval between filter changes.

What affects a filter’s performance?
There are three components of a filter that are important.

1. The filter media
The fluids pass through filter material or media where contaminants are trapped. Naturally, what the filter media is made of is important. The material must be strong enough to last through the interval between changes. So, it must be tough and not fall apart during its lifetime.

2. Filter construction
The filter must be constructed so that it traps extremely fine particles but doesn’t get clogged and become ineffective. Inadequate capacity in a filter will trigger the bypass valve to open too early, and unfiltered fluids will enter the system.

3. Filter canister
The filter canister should be strong enough to avoid collapse under high pressure. Collapsing would permit unfiltered fluids to flow through the system.

Before you buy a filter
Ask your parts representative whether the filter you plan to purchase meets the equipment manufacturer’s requirements.

An engine’s cooling system protects it from over heating and keeps it operating at optimal temperatures. If the cooling system is not maintained properly, it must work harder to prevent the engine from overheating. As a result, your machine will not operate as efficiently and internal components could be damaged. It is estimated that cooling system problems are responsible for 40% of all downtime.

Follow these maintenance tips to ensure optimal performance and reduce downtime.

Check Cooling Fans

The cooling fan is part of the cooling system and must be inspected regularly. Look for loose or damaged fan blades. Cracks or nicks in the fan blades can cause the fan to become out of balance and vibrate, which can destroy water pump bearings and other related components, eventually leading to total system failure. Also, inspect the fan for excessive debris buildup and clean regularly. The debris can cause the fan to disengage and blow a system fuse.

Clean Radiator and Coolers

It is very important to power wash the radiator and cooler every few days, especially during hot weather. Humidity and dust buildup will coat radiators, air coolers, and oil coolers. This buildup cuts down on airflow and heat transfer significantly. As a result, operating temperatures increase dramatically and cause the engine to overheat and, ultimately, shut down.

Analyze Coolant

Coolant that appears cloudy or has floating particulates could be an indication of corrosion, cavitation and rust. Regardless of coolant type, all coolants should be clear. Inspect the inside of the radiator for corrosion, and check the coolant for signs of rust or debris. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended drain intervals. At a minimum, coolant should be drained and flushed annually.

It is important to perform a coolant analysis because half of all water pump failures are caused by a concentration of antifreeze that is too high for the cooling system. Test the additive concentrations with a coolant analysis test by taking a sample and submitting it for analysis. The recommended interval for testing is 1,000 hours. McCann has sample kits available that are easy to use.

Replace Hoses & Clamps

Frequently check the condition of your coolant hoses & clamps. As the temperature rises in the cooling system, the hoses and clamps expand and contract at different rates. This expanding and contracting of the hoses and clamps, repeated over and over, causes the hose-to-neck seal to wear. Inspect all radiator and heater core hoses and lines for excessive softness or hardness, and check for cracks and leaks. Be sure all the connections are tight to avoid water leakage and hydraulic hose failures. Replace hoses every two years.

Why Purchase Remanufactured Parts?

Cost Less
Remanufactured parts cost less that new parts, often as much as 25 – 45% less.

Same Specifications as New
When parts are remanufactured, they are completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected, re-engineered and rebuilt with new components to meet OEM specifications. All parts are tested to assure that specifications are met.

Same Warranties as New
In most cases, remanufactured parts come with the same warranty as new parts.

Faster Installation
Remanufactured parts are ready to install, so our turnaround time for installation is fast.

Environmentally Friendly

  • Remanufacturing generally uses about 20% of the amount of energy required for new manufacturing.
  • About one pound of new material is used for every 5 to 9 pounds of reused material.

 

Available Remanufactured Parts

Engines and Assemblies
Complete engines
Basic engines
Short blocks
Connecting rods
Cylinder heads
Oil coolers
Oil pumps
Turbochargers
Water pumps

Fuel
Injection nozzles
Injection pumps

Electrical
Alternators
Generators
Starters

Hydraulics

Power Train
Torque converters
Power shuttles
Transmissions

And more
A/C compressors
Electronic controllers
Monitors

Coolant is important in your equipment’s cooling systems to prevent freezing, corrosion, cavitation and rust.

A periodic coolant analysis can provide important information about the health of your machine.

What’s in coolant?

  • Nearly all heavy-duty antifreeze is about 95% ethylene glycol and 5% water and additives. About 1% of all antifreeze sold is made from propylene glycol, an alternative to ethylene glycol which is less toxic, but more expensive. By mixing glycol with various ratios of water, coolant is created. Typically, coolant is 30 – 50% glycol.
  • Formulations differ with the additive package that’s blended into the ethylene glycol. All of these additives fight rust, scale and corrosion but may have different chemical compositions. In diesel engines the additives also protect wet cylinder sleeves from cavitation.

What to look for when buying coolant

  • Make sure the coolant you purchase for your  diesel engines states that it complies with ASTM  standard D-6210 on the package.
  • Deionized water is preferred and the coolant should  be prediluted, so there is no need to add water.
  • Pick an antifreeze type, avoid mixing it with other  types, and follow the maintenance recommendations  suggested for that coolant.

Maintenance Recommendations

  • Periodic visual test
    Check color—should be clear, indicating no rust is  present, and correct, showing that it has not mixed  with another antifreeze type.
  • Test additive concentrations with a coolant analysis  test by taking a sample and submitting it for analysis.  The recommended interval for testing is 1,000 hours.  McCann Industries has easy to use sample kits  available.
  • Sample strips are available to test additive  concentrations yourself. Using paper chemically  sensitive test strips, you can see problems from color  changes which indicate freeze/boil point  (glycol content), nitrite (or nitrite/molybdate) levels   and, in some instances, pH.

OAT Coolant

  • OAT coolant is required for new Case Tier 4 Final engines with ≥ 56 kW emissions.
  • Use OAT coolant to avoid the risk of serious engine damage through overheating.

Never Mix OAT with Regular Coolant

  • Mixing coolants can cause gelling damage which is not covered by your warranty, and repairs can cost thousands of dollars.

Selecting Coolants

  • Do not risk using OAT coolants from other manufacturers, unless they specifically meet CASE’s MAT3624 material requirements.
  • Use the ATSM number, not the coolant color, for reference when selecting your coolant.

Mixing OAT with Water

  • Mix half OAT and half water ratio, which will protect cooling systems to -35° F (-37° C).
  • Only use de-ionized water with OAT coolant. Tap, hard, softened or sea water will reduce the coolant life and can cause deposits to form, creating hot spots and cavitational corrosion.

Avoid Machine Damage

  • Do not use anti corrosive additives in an OAT cooling system. Although these additives are commonly used in ethylene glycol fluids, they can cause premature wear in your machine.
  • Only use machines with chemical resistant hosing. OAT coolant will react with PVC, rubber and Viton seals, creating leaks over time.

Note: Use of OAT is not recommended for older machines.
If you choose to run OAT in an older application, the cooling system must be flushed. The nitrate level must not be higher than 20 ppm.

A few simple maintenance routines can extend the life of your skid steer tires dramatically.

Clean your Tires
Hose down your tires routinely so they are easy to inspect. Look for bubbles, bumps, cracks, and anything that might be lodged in the rubber.

Check the Tread
A quick visual inspection will also reveal any uneven wear. On skid steers, one set of tires may wear faster (the front or rear), depending on how they are operated. Rotate the tires as soon as you notice any uneven wear, which will extend the life of all four tires.

Operate with All Four Tires Engaged
There is less wear on the tires and the machine when the skid steer is operated with all four tires engaged on the ground. When the bucket is too far beneath a load, the front tires may lift slightly off the ground, placing stress on the back tires.

Keep the Tires on the Ground
Skid steer tires are designed for operation on ground, not on road surfaces. Consequently, the tires will wear out faster when they are driven on roads rather than on the ground.

Watch for Debris
Skid steers are operating in areas that are often full of debris. Drive carefully and avoid litter. Pneumatic tires can go flat, and foam-filled tires can leak if punctured.

Protect the Rims
Avoid popping off retaining rims, which can occur by catching the rim on an object. It’s inexpensive to replace a rim, but the downtime associated with unnecessary maintenance can be quite expensive. Look for tires with rim protectors built into the design.

Monitor the Pressure
With pneumatic tires, if the tire pressure is too low, you will waste fuel, and if it’s too high, you increase the chance of flats. In either case, uneven wear can result. Keep a reliable tire gauge handy and check the pressure every day or once a week, depending on how often you are operating the skid steer. Check your owner’s manual for the acceptable tire pressure range.

Store Properly
Constant exposure to sunlight can cause tires to expand and crack. Store tires in a cool, dry place.

Buy Consistent Brands
Avoid installing different brands or models of tires on the same machine. Each brand has its own distinct design and combining brands can cause uneven wear on both your tires and your skid steer.

Clean Fuel Extends Engine Life

Dirt and dust in your fuel system can reduce engine life by 50%. These contaminants cause more than 85% of all failures in fuel systems.

Even tiny amounts of dirt and dust in your machine’s fuel system can become obstructions to the engine’s normal processes. Newer engines are even more susceptible to damage, because the fuel injection pressure is higher, and the smallest particles can impair normal engine functions.

Areas of Potential Damage
When dirt and dust are introduced to an area in the engine where quick, sliding movements are important, wear can be accelerated when these small particles interfere with the sliding movement. Examples of these parts are inner and outer valves, nozzle needles and seats, and command piston sliding portions. Two areas where dirt and dust can cause particularly harmful damage are at the interface between the injector barrel and plunger and on the control valves.

Interface between Injector Barrel and Plunger
The amount of fluid required to keep the operation smooth and continuous between the injector barrel and plunger is just 2.5 microns. The introduction of dirt or dust into this area could cause significant interference with this movement.

Control Valves
A decrease in engine power occurs when the control valves, which maintain fuel pressure, begin leaking. Such leaks are caused when contaminants wear away seals.

How to stop dirt and dust from entering the fuel line

Fueling
Properly maintain all fueling equipment. When you refuel, always replace the nozzle back onto the pump, rather than letting it fall on the ground where it could gather dust.

Operation
Construction equipment often operates in a dusty environment. You can prevent dust from entering the fuel system by making sure the vent tube and fuel tank caps are tightly sealed.

Service
While servicing your equipment, minimize the possibility of exposing the engine to the air, which will minimize the risk of introducing dirt and dust into the fuel system. Whenever you change filters, refuel or make any type of engine repairs, accomplish these tasks indoors, if possible, where there is less chance of contamination.

Filters
Change filters promptly at the manufacturer’s suggested intervals—clogged filters cannot prevent dirt from circulating through your engine. Use filters that are approved by the equipment manufacturer. Carefully follow the instructions provided in your equipment operator’s manual when changing both the main filters and the prefuel filters, so that dust does not enter the fuel system during this process. Always check seals to detect possible leaks.

Tips for Changing Filters 

Main Filter
Do not fill the filter element with fuel when changing the main filter to avoid introducing dust during the replacement process. Also, check to insure that the o-ring fits properly. Operate the priming pump to fill the new filter with fuel.

Prefuel Filter
Fill the new filter cartridge for the prefuel filter with fuel before installing it. Check to make sure the cap is attached to the new filter cartridge, then pour fuel into the cartridge (do not use the center hole). Once the cartridge is full of fuel, take off the cap and discard it. Install the prefuel filter cartridge onto the filter holder after applying a thin layer of engine oil to the packing surface of the cartridge. When the packing surface on the cartridge comes in contact with the sealing surface of the filter holder, tighten the filter cartridge to turn.

How to prevent water from entering the fuel line
At night, condensation can occur due to a drop in the temperature while the equipment is not operating, and water may enter the fuel tank. To avoid the formation of condensation, at the end of each day, the tank should be filled up. Before beginning to operate your equipment each day, drain the water and sediment that has accumulated at the bottom of the tank. Similarly, about ten minutes after refueling, water and sediment should be drained from the fuel tank.

Use the best fuel.

Make sure you are using high quality winter diesel fuel. The fuel conditioner should match the type of fuel you are using (e.g., low sulfur) and should be approved by manufacturer.

Check starting devices
Check to make sure block heaters and cold weather starting devices are working properly.

Warm up the machine
Let machines come up to operating temperature before working.

Keep a spare fuel filter
Keep an extra fuel filter in the cab, but follow installation instructions in your operator’s manual.

Check ice build up
Check for Ice or snow build up in exhaust or intake if applicable. Inspect and clear Ice or snow build up from throttle, and brake area.

Warm up to improve steering response
Steering response on equipment with hydraulic steering may become very slow at low temperatures, even when the correct oils are used. Once the engine is started, let the machine idle until the engine reaches operating temperature.

Safety first
Mount and dismount your machine using three points of contact. Remember that you are working with snow and ice; slips and falls are a common cause of injuries. Wear your seatbelt when operating equipment and stay alert.

For Idle Machines

  • Start once a month, when temperature is  above freezing.
  • Avoid starting a machine in extreme cold weather.
  • Operate hydraulics for a brief time.
  • Do not try to break crawler type machines from  a badly frozen situation. It can result in power  train damage.
  • Test batteries, and use proper procedures if  a unit needs to be started with an assist devise  or jumper cables.

Follow these best practices to make sure your machine is ready for winter.

  • Check chain tanks, final drives, swing gear baths and gear boxes for water. Check the label to make sure you’re using coolant that complies with ASTM standard D-621, with a freeze point low enough for your climate. If coolant freezes, it can crack the engine block and ruin the engine.
  • Add fuel conditioner.
    Fuel conditioner prevents your fuel from freezing and makes sure your engine starts in the cold. Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for the amount of conditioner required. Match the fuel conditioner to the type of fuel you’re using (e.g., low sulfur).
  • Check the fuel filter.
    If the fuel filter is clogged, moisture can build up and freeze in the winter, causing your machine to run improperly or fail to start. Empty the water traps in the filters before cold weather arrives. To avoid downtime, keep an extra set of fuel filters in your cab.
  • Check cold start aids. Diesel engines spray ether into the air system to help the engine start in cold weather. For older machines that have ether spray bottles, check the bottle to make sure it isn’t empty. For new machines with an automatic ether system, inspect the connections and hoses for cracks or loose connections.
  • Check the block heater.
    Block heaters keep fluids at the right temperature and viscosity. If it isn’t working, the oil can thicken, so it’s harder to turn the engine over and adds stress on the battery. Plug in the block heater to check it, then touch the hoses to make sure they are warm.
  • Inspect air pre-cleaners.
    Large dust particles and debris can build up during the summer and should be removed. Otherwise, snow and ice could collect around them, allowing moisture into the air system, which could cause engine failure.
  • Check battery and connections.
    Corrosion around battery connections causes less voltage to be transmitted, and increases the strain on the battery. Corroded connections can drain the battery, preventing your machine from starting. Periodic inspections for corrosion reduce the chance of having a drained battery.

Winter Storage

  • Top off the fuel tank if possible.
    If you have a diesel engine, leave it completely full during winter months to eliminate the possibility of condensation forming in the fuel tank and spreading. Condensation can clog the fuel filter, which can clog fuel lines, carburetors, and injectors.
  • Run the engine after cleaning.
    Run your machine’s engine after cleaning the engine and replacing the oil so that a protective film of oil coats the internal parts. The oil coating acts as a rust preventative. Pour a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze into the coolant system before running as well to protect the cooling system to -34°F.
  • Clean & fully charge batteries, then disconnect the power leads.
    Never store discharged batteries. Colder temperatures slow the discharge rate of fully charged batteries.
  • Start machines once a month.
    Avoid starting the machines in extreme cold weather. Find a time when temperature is above freezing to start the machine and operate the hydraulics for a brief time.
  • Do not try to break crawler type machines from a badly frozen situation. The result can be power train damage.

Cold Weather Operation

  • Protect your machine.
    If you can’t keep your machine inside when it’s not in use, at least keep a weather resistant tarp over the engine. With snow comes condensation, which can cause problems for the entire engine.
  • Manage productivity.
    Cold weather makes the earth harder, and frost can penetrate roadways and aggregates to make utility, road, and crushing jobs much more difficult and time consuming. Winter months have less daylight, so manage your time wisely.
  • Keep the job site clean.
    It is imperative to keep jobsites neat and clean during winter months. When not working, leave a layer of snow on the ground to keep frost from penetrating the ground – the snow will actually insulate the ground beneath. When working, make sure to clear all snow and ice to avoid accidents.
  • Clean areas designated for snow removal.
    Clean up debris or equipment that will be hidden by fallen snow. Mark any areas of concern with reflective stakes so snow removal crews can easily identify & stay away from those areas.
  • Plan for earthworks projects.
    Frozen chunks of ground need to be placed in designated areas. The frozen chunks of earth contain water that can cause major problems in the spring, such as sink holes.
  • Use the best fuel.
    Make sure you are using high quality winter diesel fuel. The fuel conditioner should match the type of fuel you are using (e.g., low sulfur) and should be approved by manufacturer.
  • Check starting devices.
    Make sure block heaters and cold weather starting devices are working properly.
  • Warm up the machine.
    Let machines come up to operating temperature before working.
  • Keep a spare fuel filter.
    Keep an extra fuel filter in the cab, and follow installation instructions in your operator’s manual.
  • Check ice build up.
    Check for Ice or snow build up in exhaust or intake if applicable. Inspect and clear ice or snow from throttle and brake area.
  • Warm up to improve steering response.
    Steering response on equipment with hydraulic steering may become very slow at low temperatures, even when the correct oils are used. Once the engine is started, let the machine idle until the engine reaches operating temperature.
  • Stay aware of safety.
    Mount and dismount your machine using three points of contact. Remember that you are working with snow and ice slips and falls are a common cause of injuries. Wear your seatbelt when operating equipment and stay alert.

Adjusting Tension

Improper tension
Loose tracks can detrack. Over-tightening can cause power loss, excessive roller and idler wear, and could tear the tracks. Refer to your operator’s manual for track inspection and tensioning procedures.

How to adjust
Track tension is controlled by a track adjuster located behind the front idler. Tension adjustments are made by pumping or draining grease through the track adjuster valve. Even small adjustments in track sag have a big impact on tension. A change in sag from 1’’ to 0.5’’ increases tension by about 3,000 pounds. Refer to your operator’s manual for specific information on how to adjust the track tension of your machine.

Inspect adjuster valve periodically
Make sure your adjuster valve is working properly by visually inspecting it periodically. If the valve shows signs of leakage, bring your machine in for repair as soon as possible. Leakage can lead to a loss of track tension and increased wear.

 

Match Tension to Operating conditions

Adjust track tension on-site
Make tension adjustments on the job site rather than in the shop. Track tension may increase if the sprocket and chain are packed with mud or other materials. A track that is properly tensioned in the shop may become too tight when packed with mud.

Test packing conditions before adjusting
To match track tension with the specific packing conditions of the job site, run your machine for a short while on the job site, then make the necessary adjustments.

Make frequent adjustments
Changes in weather can alter the packing conditions of the job site throughout the day. Making tension adjustments in response to these changes can help reduce track wear and costs.

Do not operate your machine if the tracks are frozen
Wait for the weather to improve if your tracks become frozen. If you try to use power to force the tracks to move you might destroy them.

 

Operation

Avoid abrupt turns and high speeds
Do not make abrupt turns, because they place unnecessary stress on the track and undercarriage. Continuous turning to the same side can cause asymmetrical wear. Higher speeds cause more wear on the undercarriage. Use the slowest possible operating speed for the job.

Avoid excessive reverse operation
Do not operate in reverse unless necessary. Reverse operation wears tracks up to three times as quickly as forward operation. Highspeed reverse is particularly destructive to tracks and undercarriage components.

Inspection
Have your undercarriage inspected annually by a trained technician to catch problems early before they lead to unnecessary damage.